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Molecular Gastronomy

molecular gastronomy, or "space" products of the future

O-oo!
Physics in the kitchen ; Molecular gastronomy

Inking jelly, mayonnaise, cauliflower, airy Chantilly cream of foie gras, beetroot, purple and pink cubes of stewed octopus, a refined background for a roll of raw tuna, layered dessert with strawberries in the strawberry-juice saffron, with a surprise at the bottom - a slice of grilled red pepper ... All these dishes are cooked in the restaurant "Gallery" and served with during the Moscow tour Ganera Pierre (Pierre Gagnaire) - one of the most celebrated Chefs of the world, the creator and leader of the four restaurants in London, Tokyo and Paris (one of them was awarded the highest scores of world culinary community - Three stars in the directory "Michelin"), designed in the style of the so-called molecular gastronomy. This is the actual trend combines creative freedom Cook with the latest discoveries of chemistry, physics and biology.
At the recent Edinburgh International Festival of Science Herve Yew shared his secrets how to use chemistry to invent new, sometimes very unusual combinations of food.

According to E. Tice, to make the taste of cheap whiskey the same as the roads, just add a drink of vanilla, which converts the whiskey and gives him a great finish and warmth. Experiment based on the discovery that the chemical elements are formed during aging whiskey in wooden barrels, are similar to elements in the vanilla.

French scientist Herve Tice, who studies the secrets of taste, I am sure that the best cooks - not those who use their intuition and imagination, preparing delicious meals but those who know the secrets of chemistry and physics and prepares accurate laboratory technique.

Smack illusion

that our tastes depends on the work of the senses, and that is a consequence of any illusions of perception - both short-term, and global? About this reflects a physicist Peter Berem :

«The exact answer to this question can not yield any physics or physiology, or psychology. More depends on the work of our taste buds, but it's not just them. Professional tasters can taste and aroma of wine to determine the crop year, tasting white wine with a harmless red dye, it simply does not know! The same ice cream we perceive in different ways depending on the lighting: it seems We strawberry, if the light in the room pink or apricot - if the orange. Some people tried yogurt with no additives, allege that the sensed it crunchy flakes, if an experiment is someone crunched over their ears. In other words, our perception of taste is always present an element of illusion and how big his role in a particular case - is unknown. "

From the kitchen to the lab and back again ...

On this unusual cooking direction of the first mentioned in the early 1990's, when a physics professor at Oxford University Nicholas Kurti (Nicolas Kurti) and French chemist chemistry lab molecular interactions Collège de France Herve Tees (Herves This) opened the first joint seminar on the topic. Kurti analyzed the physical phenomena in the kitchen (for example, that he invented to inject into the meat before baking pineapple juice to make it especially gentle, with a crisp caramelised crust). A Tisza interested in confirmation or refutation of inexplicable at first glance, people's culinary rules, which are transmitted in many families of generation to generation. Furthermore, he deduced molecular formulas for all types of French sauces, scientifically sound, particularly their formulation and technology preparation.

This study tees and Kurt became the theoretical basis for culinary experiments Ganera Pierre and his colleagues. Since 2001 Hervé Tice monthly Ganeru offers food for thought this or that topic, interested students from the academic point of view, and that in turn is responsible original recipe for a cover it on a pragmatic, "the kitchen" level.

Leading European organizations, such as French National Research Institute of Agronomy (INRA), are also involved in research in this area. In particular, with the support of the European Union is a three-year project Inicon, which aims - to promote the development of innovative technologies to modernize the commercial cooking.
The project also involves more than 80 scientists and engineers, technology exchange centers in Bremerhaven (Germany), dealing with innovation in several areas, including in the field of food ingredients and processes. In particular, we study the sensory analysis of food, ways of extracting scents mikroinkapsulyatsiya and functional foods.
In Italy, the newly established University of Gastronomic Sciences, which in tandem with an existing in this country movement Slow Food («Slow food ") plans to deal with various topics - from the principles of sensory evaluation of food to proper nutrition. Recently, the University of Copenhagen was founded first chair of gastronomy. Planned to set up a similar training unit in Athens.

Outside usual

Over the last decade Many talented chefs - such as the Catalan Ferran Adria (Ferran Adria) and Englishman Heston Blumenthal (Heston Blumental) , - seek to use in your kitchen newest modern science. Carried away by technological innovations, they expand our understanding of the cooking itself. Sometimes they manage to achieve striking results: adding to the fruit mixture harmless, does not have its own taste and smell of calcium chloride (in our country, many used it for curdling milk), they get a chance to cook the jelly so that it froze for several seconds at any temperature - even at +40 ° C. A schitanye milligrams of sodium alginate create an even more curious effect: fruit foam hardens the sparkling bubbles, like caviar.
Famous proponents of this trend -
Ettore Bocca (Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, Lake Como, Italy),
Carlos Абельян (Comerc 24, Barcelona, Spain)
Andoni Aduris (Mugaritz, San Sebastian, Spain)
. Chef's number of U.S. restaurants, such as Willie Dyufresn (WD-50, New York),
Pino Maffeo (Restaurant L, Boston),
Shi Galante (Cru, New York)
Grant Achatts (Alinea, Chicago) , also gained fame by using the techniques of molecular gastronomy.

tradition and creativity

Lobster with mayonnaise cauliflower and artichokes, Pierre Ganerom planned for the menu of his Moscow tour, has changed just before serving: Chef noticed in the kitchen of the restaurant "Gallery" wasabi and immediately realized that this is what a stroke is not enough in his dish. Ganer constantly changing its recipes - they are in constant evolution, each time becoming a little bit different. "In my opinion, there are two kitchens: author, then there is a kitchen artist, tied to work, craftsmanship and cuisine, tied on the techniques and traditions. They are absolutely equal, it is impossible to say that one surpasses the other. My type of cuisine - the first: to me the concept of "cooking" and "Creativity" totally inseparable, and molecular approach that does not contradict. "

Emulsions, reagents and futuristic devices, more relevant in the laboratory than the kitchen, are now at the height of culinary fashion. However, Pierre Ganer indifferent to this lush props: "I'm much interesting to know all about the products I work with, and no special equipment to do that I do not want to. " Thus, together with Herve tees, they brought to perfect cooking meringue, proving the truth of another popular cooking "beliefs": "It turns out that adding just 5% of fruit (eg, lemon) juice from a single egg white whipped a cubic meter of the lightest, air kiss, able to fly away from the slightest breeze! " Molecular gastronomy reveals in the most ordinary products many surprising properties: "Is not it interesting that in fact the usual for us to taste a tomato - not a given, but the result of the reaction between the walls of the tomato pulp and liquid, which we find in them, reduces? - Says Pierre Ganer. - If it gently deflate tomatoes, no taste is gone! So our mouth, connecting with one another - an active participant in a tomato taste ".

classics such as frying meat, molecular gastronomy, too, is an area worthy of study. "Meat is best to bake at a low temperature (55-58 ° C) for several hours - explains Pierre Ganer. - So it turns out tender and pink and juicy. (It is primarily about beef and mutton - the bird to do so still not recommended, although in a few hours at this temperature kills salmonella safely.)
Allen Ducasse insists that his readers venison baked in the oven at exactly 67.50 C for exactly 8.5 hours. It is at this temperature, collagen, located in the meat softens and the juices are not lost and the meat becomes tough. But the habit of "seal" the meat juices, obzharivaya its preliminary - It is just another traditional fallacy: by the usual weighting can be sure that juices while still evaporate. The purpose of this action quite different: to create a great flavor "roast meat" - the same one who, rising from the altars, ancient Greek gods indulged on Olympus. In order not to lose this important component of a hot, fast enough singe piece of meat at the highest heat (we have to do often use solder lamp) and then put in a preheated to 50 degrees with a small oven.

Anatomy taste

notion of taste - one of the key molecular gastronomy. "If you think about what a taste of the apple? - Reflects Pierre Ganer. - It is composed of many flavors, and each of them self-sufficient, and a single taste of apple does not exist. " Agrees with him Berem Peter (Peter Barham) , an expert on polymers, a professor of physics at Bristol University (UK) for many years collaborated with Heston Blumenthal, chef of the famous London restaurant molecular Fat Duck. "The taste - extremely complicated thing - he says. - Compare the sugar and chocolate. Their sweetness is required one type of sugar molecules, and chocolate are hundreds of them - some volatile aromatic compounds more than two hundred. It and the sweetness and bitterness, and natural salt, and mild acidity (the result of fermentation of cocoa beans) ... Different parts of the language of heaven, pharynx and larynx unequally sensitive to taste stimuli. Most susceptible to the sweet, for example, the tip of the tongue, to the bitter - its root, to sour - the region ... So from what will we chew it, say, or dissolve, and will depend on our perception of chocolate. "
According to Blumenthal-
« process of perception of taste is very complex. We are not only differently see, hear and feel, but each of us the experience, emotions and memories.
Foods - is a complex process that involves all the senses: taste, touch, sight and smell (the most powerful source of memories) and proprioception (perception themselves and memory) ".
in his philosophy culinary arts include not only brought him fame unusual combinations of flavor and appearance, but also research physiology and psychology.

Another interesting problem - the compatibility of tastes. "Most products go well together because they contain flavor molecules similar type - continues Peter Berem. - Most of the great combination of chefs have opened themselves by experience, but a place for scientific experiment, there is always the case. What is best set off the caviar? White chocolate!
This is absolutely enchanting combination, and Heston Blumenthal often uses it in their menu. Very well with dark chocolate and Roquefort cheese, strawberries, peppers and even cauliflower with cocoa powder. The same principle works and in the opposite direction: for example, do not recommend trying with basil and coffee, for which there is no common molecules. In general, molecular gastronomy has something to explore! " However, Pierre Ganer cautions against excessive enthusiasm academic approach: "In fact, any kitchen can be a molecular, as defined physical and chemical processes in the preparation of dishes does not depend on the chef thinks about it or not. Plus molecular gastronomy in the fact that it makes chefs think about the mass of unexpected things, and it generates a lot of exciting new culinary ideas and discoveries. "

08.11.2006

PSYCHOLOGIES № 9,2006

Gastronomic game

Until recently it seemed that nothing new in cooking has not come up with. And then there are "cosmic" cook, though descended from the pages of books Strugatsky. They begin to use the incredible things for the kitchen: centrifuges, laser sheets and absolutely fantastic technology. And the results of their innovations anoint molecular gastronomy.

pioneer of molecular gastronomy - French scientist Ervey Tice suggested use of molecular bonds between different products to get an unexpected result: the soup into a souffle, mousse meat, spaghetti parmesan, solid cubes and coffee ice cream with a taste of herring. Tice arranged seminars for chefs, talking about new prospects in gastronomy. But his not taken seriously when he proposed to make ice cream from liquid nitrogen and lime mousse (a ball, getting into a language completely evaporates, leaving only the flavor), everything around screaming that this ice cream will be poisonous. However, the scientist just laughed, saying that soon and ordinary housewives carried away in chemistry and will instead buy mushrooms for dinner benzyl trans-2-metilbutenoat to give a dish of mushroom flavor.

On the verge of a possible

Molecular dishes, of course, do not cook with conventional cookware. To create these culinary masterpieces apply fast frozen in liquid nitrogen, grinding products to molecules with a "laser", the introduction of these inert gas storage in vacuum furnace.

Tice turned the culinary world upside down - shift the emphasis from food ingredients to techniques. No longer have to chase for Parma ham, tomatoes and Baku Australian beef - for molecular gourmet important only one thing: how the products are processed. And while critics mutter that the focus of powder-soup in which to pour the water does not differ from the usual cheap fast food, the use of evident. In particular, after processing of carrots with liquid nitrogen in it retains all the nutrients. And if you boil an egg at the usual temperature of 64 ° C within two hours, the contents of the eggs becomes the consistency of fudge, and it can be used as a thickener for sauces, refusing to from the less useful cream. Low temperature cooking saves all the necessary vitamins - a simple, seemingly method, and solves once the complex issues related to conservation of medicinal properties of products. You can, by contrast, fish subjected to extremely high temperatures - its texture will change completely, but the taste remains the same. Another undeniable plus - after special treatment product begins a surprising way to create a harmonious ensemble with the most unsuitable neighbors. Quite naturally looks like cod with chocolate and bacon or lamb with sea urchins. And unlike fusion cuisine (fusion), which deliberately incompatible ingredients are just combined into a single plate, in the molecular the kitchen turns out perfectly sound a chord.

New Alchemists

follow in the footsteps Ervey tees and try to translate his ideas into practice decided to cook the most risky. Spaniard Ferran Adria of the Catalan restaurant El Bulli »(El Bulli) spent a lot of time and effort to equip its research lab "Elbullitaller» (elBullitaller) and assemble a creative team consisting not only of the cooks, but also from chemists and even microbiologists. Now gourmands from around the world are written out to dinner in his house eating »El Bulli for the year - much earlier than the booking of airline tickets.

Not a typical citizen of England, famous for the lack of any kind was the kitchen, Heston Blumenthal is preparing, in his London establishment "Fat Dhaka» (The Fat Duck) white chocolate with sturgeon caviar and apricot sauce, pepper and garlic - besieged by clients had neither. Especially visitors like the branded chip Blumenthal: changes between meals the waiter brings the dish with no food, and with flavors - light haze with the smell of fresh hay or wood is not only surprising but also stimulates the appetite.

Interested in a new direction and the French. Pierre Ganer, owner and chef of his own name Paris restaurant, "Pierre Ganer, said:" For me, the molecular gastronomy - it's just interesting game. " Pierre Ganer (Pierre Gagnaire) - one of the principal actors in the world of haute cuisine. This name is synonymous with gourmet gourmet majority gastronomic capitals of the world.

not gone away and the Americas: David Kinch from the restaurant Manresa »(Manresa), California spends for experiments 15 hours a day, cooking, for example, meat at very low temperatures so that it turned into a mousse.

came Molecular kitchen and into Russia. Restaurateur and chef Anatoly Komm, a longtime friend of Ferran Adria (follower of the great Ervey Tisza), has long experimented with products but while the world did not start this molecular boom, capacity to implement ambitious ideas were not too many. But now his baby "Anatoliy Comm »(Anatoly Komm) public fells shaft. Here, a stack of yogurt is accompanied by a spoon with a creamy parmesan air, and black cod appears as a foam. Nearly 20 changes, and each - a solid surprise, each waiting for the next meal with the same look as the morning of the new year in my childhood, when, finally, it will be possible to get under the tree and open presents. Even the ordinary black tea with lemon becomes incomprehensible consistency.

not hit the face in the dirt, and other related Moscow city: St. Petersburg opened the restaurant Guash, which serves a salad of tomato, basil and cucumber jelly with caramel and eggplant krokonat of liquid chicken with pasta. Tightened even Ukraine: Kiev "Foam" considers himself a worthy successor case Ferran Adria.
PS
But European chemists who invented molecular gastronomy, not even dreamed of what the experiments were set in Soviet-catering! For example, in the sour cream added to a natural thickener - metiltsellulozu and 1 kg of product received 200 yes so that the spoon was standing!!! © Arguments and Facts

websites and books :
www.fatduck.co.uk
www.elbulli.com
www.wd-50.com
www.alinearestaurant.com
www.comerc24.com
INRA (National Institute of Agronomic Research at the French College (Paris), which is a chemical laboratory on the interaction of molecular components).
www.college-de-france.fr
Inicon : EU-funded project for the exchange technologies in the field of gastronomy, in which monthly provides a forum for chefs, scientists, teachers, engineers and writers. www.inicon.net
TTZ (Center for the exchange of technology, Bremerhaven, Germany). www.ttz-bremerhaven.de
Leatherhead Food International , Leatherhead, England. www.lfra.co.uk
Givaudan . www.givaudan.com
«Food and Kitchen: Culinary Encyclopedia of Science, Cultural History » (2004), Harold Magee
« Culinary Science » (2001), Peter Barem
« Chemistry in the kitchen » (2004), Heston Blumenthal and Ted Lister
« Molecular Gastronomy » (2002), Herve Tees
« Technology and contrasts » (2004), Dani Garcia

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